šŗļø9/100: whimsical korean architecture before boring apartments
100 local spots in Seoul | curated by half local Ella Kaill
Welcome back! Iām currently documenting 100 local spots in Seoul. No algorithm, no top 10 lists, just 100 real local discoveries.
ICYMI:
7/100: local indie gig in a basement
5/100: actually good souvenirs in Seoul
Ever heard of Balming Tiger? The āalternative K-popā music group made up of rappers, singers, producers, directors, editors, etc etc??
If not, start here with their latest music video for the new single Home, which shows a really specific part of traditional Korean marriage culture. And yes, the squid masks are part of it.
When the single was released last week, the cover art looked suspiciouslyā¦ local?
That whirly-twirly building looks highly unusual, compared to most buildings and apartments in South Korea. Here, the developers play fast and loose with the copy-and-paste function. Every apartment block is tall, grey, and exactly the same as all the others around it.
And yet, owning one of these boring apartments is most peopleās goal in life. Move into an apartment building with 27 other identical units, then decorate it in white and beige and zero personality. Itās not only a trend, but a status symbol that lets others know youāve āmade it.ā
What Iām saying is, the building in the photo above looks more like something out of a Dr Seuss book than any other building in Korea.
But it WAS built here in Korea. By a Korean architect.
In fact, it was built by possibly the most interesting and pioneering Korean architect there is.
This is Kim Chung-up (ź¹ģ¤ģ ). For the Korean learners out there, donāt blame meāthat is the official romanization of his name.
He was a student of Le Corbusier, the world-famous French-Swiss architect known for transforming modern architecture with modular, Brutalist buildings worldwide.
Back to the building pictured above in the Balming Tiger cover artā¦ It was designed by Kim Chung-up and used as Jeju Universityās Administrative Building from 1964 to 1995, when it was sadly demolished.
Even by todayās standards, itās refreshing to look at with all its smooth curves and ramps. And Iām a sucker for an interesting window shape. I canāt imagine how wild it must have looked in the 60s on a largely undeveloped island off the mainland of Koreaā¦
Now, I donāt live on Jeju Island. So why did that building feel local when I saw the Balming Tiger cover art????
This is why:
This building is in the middle of Seoul. More specifically, at exit 3 of Dongdaemun History and Culture Park station. It stands empty and disused, despite that ugly red sign. And guess who designed it?
Your boy, Kim Chung-up, of course. Did the curved walls give it away?
It was built in 1967 and used as a womenās health clinic for many years, and now itās nearly 60 years old! Of course, the surrounding area has changed immensely, and itās been painted this ugly shade of blah-yellow, but at least nobody has knocked it down yet.
If youāre interested in architecture, not only is this building a really accessible example of pioneering modern Korean architecture, itās also sandwiched between two other impressive structures.
You canāt see it in the photo, but literally just across the road to the left is Gwanghuimun.
It was first constructed in 1396, and was one of the four āsmallā gates of the former capital city āHanyangā of the Joseon Dynasty. I hear it was one of only two gates where dead bodies were allowed to be carried out of the city, so the neighbourhood right in front of it was somewhat of a mass grave. I also heard that it was originally built about 15 metres to the left or right or some other direction, but was moved over to this siteā¦at some point. Maybe run a fact-check on that one.
On the other side of the yellow building and just a 60-second walk away is Dongdaemun Design Plaza, built by world-famous Iraqi-British architect, Zaha Hadid.
Itās a bit of a marmite situation. People usually love it or simply detest it and make fun of it. Personally, I donāt think it deserves a place in the āTop 10 Things to Do in Seoulā but itās interesting if youāre into architecture. Plus, they often have great outdoor markets and events, and you can even take a free tour on the rooftop (helmets included).
Finally, Iāve cobbled together a quick list of buildings designed by Kim Chung-up that are easy to find and visit in Korea.
World Peace Gate, Jamsil, Seoul
This was completed in 1988 for the Seoul Olympics, and stands at the front of Olympic Park. Itās over 1000 feet tall, and looks really impressive at night.
French Embassy, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul
This one was completed in 1962, but it was recently renovated within the last few years. Iām not sure exactly how different it is from the original, but I know they tried to honour the original structure.
Memorial Service Hall, UN Memorial Cemetery, Busan
This one was designed in 1964 to honour fallen UN soldiers. If you ever get a chance to visit the UN Memorial Cemetery, I highly recommend it. Itās extremely beautifully done.
9/100: Complete!
Which building was your favourite?
Follow the journey: If you want to see the faster, visual side of the 100 spots, come find us on Instagram.
Thanks for reading!
Ellašš»
"And yet, owning one of these boring apartments is most peopleās goal in life. Move into an apartment building with 27 other identical units, then decorate it in white and beige and zero personality. Itās not only a trend, but a status symbol that lets others know youāve āmade it.ā" Yet another thing I don't think I can ever understand!!! Why, when there are clearly so many interesting things that can be done and SO many cool creative people here...?! Anyways, as both a music and design nerd, I really enjoyed this :)